You must have had a pretty tight engine for it to start at -25 without the usual sniff of ether! All my diesels on the farm need a sniff when it hits zero C! 'Course the newest is 1972, so I guess my herd of geriatric diesels have an excuse! One stuck out-a wide pad machine got nearly $40K. From there it looks like an early '80s D6D goes for about $15-25K. Tripper, the only real information I can find on pricing is from what the dealers want (highway robbery-$40K) and on the Ritchie Bros auction results pages. They went to a direct injection engine sometime between 19 and also put the blade tilt on wobble stick with the d series.Īll, thanks for your opinions and observations-they're all good. The D6C 10K was about the same machine other than sheetmetal and crosshaft bearings. I had a 1978 D6D and 1974 D6C before this one, they both had to get updated cross shaft bearings, but were good tractors too. Like how often do you push dirt when it is raining anyway. Funny after 26 years that I never unplugged those washer nozzles. Rebuilt everything up to the fan and alternator pulley's. I did an engine back overhaul in 2000, think I spent 70,000 on that tractor in like 3 years. I have never seen nor never will find another one as good. The windshield washers I was going to unplug, they had not worked since new, tips were plugged with paint. Needed a couple wiper blades and one switch and I think 3 headlight bulbs. I had just rebuilt the finals, resealed torque convertor, tilt cylinder, new hoses on transmission, new stiff bar pads and wear plates, had a fresh turn on 3,000 hour rails and shoes. It had 16,000 frame hours 8,000 hrs on everything but the engine, think engine had around 10,000 hrs, someone filled it with sand at 6,000 hrs in North Omaha. I bought it brand new in 1983 with factory cab, engine enclosures, lights and logging sweeps. I got 32k for mine, granted not what it was worth. I'd appreciate any and all opinions and commments!! Probably try to get a little outside work as well. I'll be using it for clearing on my stump ranch-mostly small pine to take out and grading the land enough to get agricultural equipment working the soil. I haven't seem much talk on this site about the D6D.is it a decent machine? Any warts that a guy should watch out for? In the same lineup as this machine there is another D6D, 1979-I noticed it had fish plates welded to the sides of both track frames just ahead of the sprocket. Its got an angledozer, hydraulic tilts and a cute little parallelogram ripper that looks like it should have been on a grader. I've got an opportunity to pick up a 1981 D6D, 04X serial prefix. The early ones had small bearings in the crossshaft, the finals drive bearings go out around 8,000 hrs, the angle blade is for shaping, not worth a crap for trees or production dozing, probably why roller frames are cracked Tractor will do a ton of work and you can haul it on a two axle lowboy. No big job to re the seals, just an indication of what has been happening. If it has been run hot a lot, the seals under the trans pump and assorted other valve blocks near the torque will be leaking. Pull off the floor panels under your feet on the operators station after you get it hot and look around for leaks. Factory D6 ripper is pretty large so it sounds like this one is lighter, but still might be fine. These are just problems that all old tractors will run into, don't let it sway you much, I fixed every bit of this on my D6D, and it is a very dependable and economical tractor to run. Radiator core must be good for good cooling too. Also the fan and alternator pulleys may be shot (this is an old tractor) and this will slow down the fan for less cooling. Probably need new injectors too at the same time, look real hard at the fan drive.if bearings are loose, hub is probably shot. Listen for exhaust gaskets leaking, this means broken manifold bolts, best fix is to trade head to cat for a reman and a new manifold, probably a new turbo too. If the owner will let you, put it in the dirt for a couple hours and push for all it is worth, if the trans/torque gauge goes into the red there are issues here to deal with. Parts for these are very easy to find and available from many aftermarket sources.
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